Pinot Noir, per amore
Dic 2nd, 2011 by Uvetta
Dev’essere vero che se entri in un’enoteca e chiedi una bottiglia di Pinot Nero, l’enotecario ti guarderà con occhi pieni di ammirazione, come fossi Tex Willer che entra al saloon, e io da ex enotecaria mi riconosco perfettamente e mi vedo complimentarmi per la scelta, pure con un leggero tremolìo nella voce. Già, perchè se c’è un vitigno appassionante e meraviglioso, pieno di incognite ma anche di raffinate conferme, quello è il Pinot Nero, nelle sue più varie declinazioni. Ci si arriva per gradi ad apprezzarlo, e mai si può dire di conoscerlo davvero, un tipo tenebroso e affascinante, una donna mediorientale col velo profumato di spezie e occhi profondi.
E’ così che nel discutere con Massimo e Carolina, miei compagni di viaggio in questa bellissima serie di serate di degustazione presso il Museo del Gusto di Frossasco, guarda caso, per primo nell’elenco di una lunga serie di Vitigni Nobili, abbiamo scelto proprio il Pinot nero, una scelta di passione, di amore per la Borgogna e per quelle oasi nel mondo vitivinicolo italiano dove grandi Pinot nero hanno fatto e fanno la storia di un vitigno ostico e di un vino che è sempre una scommessa con la natura. Sebbene sia io che Max non vorremmo mai parlare troppo, per lasciar spazio ai vini, alla fine parliamo sempre troppo, ma è talmente tanto l’entusiasmo di trasmettere, di comunicare il vino, che la nostra platea ci dovrà in qualche modo perdonare. La degustazione si è articolata in più fasi e più vini, che alla fine ci hanno dato un quadro abbastanza chiaro dal quale trarre su di tutte una sola informazione: ogni terroir è diverso e ahimè non si finisce mai di stupirsi per quanto questo sia vero; ci sono sfumature inaspettate, profumi intensi di frutti rossi che non credevi poter essere così dolci, e spezie mature, aria intrisa di incenso, di tabacco e di caffetteria, che non si possono dimenticare. Ho confermato la mia passione per il Barthenau di Hofstatter, così muscoloso e intenso, e riscoperto il Riserva Schweizer di Franz Haas, nel suo colore perfetto e nei suoi profumi generosi di frutta e pellame. Ho riprovato ammirazione per il Poggio della Buttinera di Travaglino, per quanto appena spento nei suoi toni caratteriali, molto diretto nell’espressione di un grande vino maturo di frutta al liquore e tannini levigati. Ho baciato la caramella e i frutti dolci del Les Baudes Borgogna Premier Cru di Chambolle-Musigny prodotto da Henri de Villamont annata 2006, che nella sua leggiadria e nello stile ‘francese’ che nulla ha a che vedere col resto del mondo, mi ha sorpreso e divertito. Ma più di tutti ho amato il Fortuni 2007 di Podere Fortuna… caldo e avvolgente di spezie e frutta matura, un po’ timido all’inizio, col passare dei minuti si dichiarava sempre di più, e all’assaggio ha confermato tutte le impressioni di eleganza e maestria che prometteva già alla vista. Non sono mai stata filo-toscana, ma questa volta è il Fortuni che sale sul podio più altro nella mia personale classifica della serata.
Io non amo il vino, proprio non riesco ad apprezzarlo però..però ad un bicchiere di Pinot Nero non rinuncio, qui dalle mie parti poi è davvero sublime.
Buon Natale :-)
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