Ho scoperto il riso stagionato
Ott 23rd, 2008 by Uvetta
Proprio così, come una rivelazione. Sono amante del riso da sempre, ho un nonno milanese figlio di ristoratori e soprattutto un padre veronese (di Isola della Scala, paese del Vialone Nano) che prepara sicuramente il mio risotto preferito (okay, okay, prima o poi ne posterò la ricetta di casa :-). Non ho mai pensato di essere un’intenditrice di riso ma un’amante decisamente sì, comprese alcune preferenze tra varietà e coltivazioni, e soprattutto fissata su certe tecniche di cottura del risotto e sui suoi risultati gastronomici. Oggi scopro che anche il riso si può stagionare, e per parecchio tempo pure -questo della foto è un Carnaroli 22 mesi- il chè migliora le sue qualità organolettiche, maturandone e complessandone gli aromi dall’erbaceo un po’ ‘crudo’ verso toni più floreali e dolci, e compattandone la consistenza con una significativa perdita di acqua che ne rende la tenuta in cottura davvero strabiliante. Ovviamente non tutto il riso è adatto ad un simile processo di affinamento, ma alla base stanno una coltivazione rispettosa della natura e un’accurata selezione dei chicchi migliori, un po’ come funziona anche per certi grandi vini, nati da rigide selezioni territoriali e qualitative delle uve e delle stagionalità. La pratica della stagionatura del riso, contrariamente a quanto si possa pensare, non nasce come fenomeno modaiolo del momento, ma ha radici profonde della storia dell’agricoltura e dell’alimentazione, e sono molte le riserie che la praticano a diversi livelli, utilizzando a volte poco poetici silos, ma anche solai e graticci di piccole produzioni artigianali, con sistemi di controllo di temperatura e umidità atti al miglior svolgimento della maturazione chimico-fisica del chicco. Il risultato in questo caso è un Carnaroli di alto livello, di cui si può leggere tutto qui e magari giàcche ormai ci siamo, andare pure a trovare il produttore presso il suo stand al Salone del Gusto che inizia proprio oggi.
Per apprezzare appieno le caratteristiche di questo riso sono consigliate tutte le ricette basilari, dalla parmigiana allo champagne, insomma con ingredenti che non modifichino troppo il sapore del riso, così da esaltarne il carattere. Però l’idea oggi mi andava un po’ stretta, e avendo pensato inevitabilmente al risotto di papy, questo qui diciamo che ne è una reinterpretazione in chiave semplicistica, mentre quello che prepara lui è la versione ‘della domenica’ col brodo del bollito, il tastasal fatto a modo suo, con ingredienti sceltissimi e cotto al mattino presto, e una tecnica di cottura che non è affatto quella classica del risotto. Una robina che io non mi sono mai azzardata a preparare (anche e soprattutto perchè viene così buono a lui che perchè mi ci dovrei mettere io ? :-) ma che questa versione speedy ricorda vagamente. Il riso stagionato contenendo meno acqua e avendo nel tempo modificato gli amidi, tende ad insaporirsi molto e a rilasciare poco amido in cottura; si ottengono per cui risotti piuttosto sgranati e asciutti, non ‘cremosi’ e difficili da mantecare, ma davvero molto gustosi. Perfetti anche per tutte quelle preparazioni che debbano tenere a lungo la cottura.
RisottAromatico del giorno
Ingredienti (per porzione)
70 gr di riso Carnaroli stagionato 22 mesi Az. Agr. De Tacchi
1 scalogno (o un pezzetto di cipolla)
2 fettine di lardo (anche pepato o speziato)
50 gr di macinato di vitello (o misto vitello e maiale)
1 cucchiaio d’olio extra vergine
3 o 4 chiodi di garofano
acqua salata q.b. per la cottura (o brodo di carne)
parmigiano grattugiato
cannella in polvere
Appassire la cipolla tritata in una pentola a fuoco basso sciogliendo il lardo con l’olio, aggiungere la carne macinata e i chiodi di garofano, salare e far rosolare leggermente la carne mescolando bene. Unire il riso e far insaporire per mezzo minuto. Aggiungere l’acqua o il brodo bollenti e iniziare la cottura del risotto, a fuoco basso e con il coperchio, mescolando di tanto in tanto e aggiungendo il liquido man mano. Portare fino a cottura al dente (ci vorranno circa venti minuti), inumidire ancora, mescolare, spegnere il fuoco e lasciar riposare con il coperchio per un paio di minuti. Servire ben caldo con una grattata di parmigiano reggiano e una generosa spolverata di cannella in polvere.
L’abbinamento con un buon bicchiere di vino rosso è d’obbligo. Perfetto in questo caso un Valpolicella Classico Superiore tipo il Vigna Sant’Urbano di Speri, con carattere ampio, fruttato e speziato, di grande persistenza e morbidezza avvolgente, tannini sottili e delicati e una vena fresco-acida non troppo pronunciata nè sopita. Se avessi avuto in casa anche un pezzetto di Monte Veronese DOP avrei potuto invitare un po’ di gente e servire una super cena senza bisogno di null’altro :-)
Questa poi mica la sapevo io eh!
Grazie mille per aver condiviso questa scoperta gastronomica! :-)
La stagionatura del riso è un concetto quasi strano, ma a quanto pare la saggezza che arriva dal passato ha sempre qualcosa da insegnare! Raffinato post e risotto speziato avvolgente!
Solo a vederlo vien voglia di mangiarlo anche a quest’ora..tipico il risottino di mezzanotte..no?
Scusa se salto di riso in…marmellata, ma ho bisogno di uno speedy consiglio e so che mi aiuterai Ho fatto una marmellata di pere madernassa con procedura già collaudata con altre frutte, ma ahimè sorpresa dopo la bollitura (io uso frutta 1 kg,500gr zucchero canna+1 bustina fruttapec+succo limone) di 3 minuti era ancora liquida come brodo. Insisto con altri 3 minuti idem, invasetto bollente come se niente fosse,capovolgo i vasi e aspetto sperando la solidificazione..Peccato il giorno dopo tutto uguale, liquido e pezzetti di pere galleggianti. Come rimediare? io ribollirei tutto per ::? e poi rinvaserei..che ne dici? so che hai eseprienza di marmellate, non è la prima quest,anzi..però è il primo flop e ci son rimasta male..Please helP!
ciao tartetatin/bianca
uvetta!! anche io sono grande amante del riso e mi piacerebbe moltissimo assaggiare questo carnaroli stagionato! non sapevo proprio dell’esistenza dello stagionato :-P come sono ignorante!
Grazie per la ricetta e l’informazione..preziosissime! :-D
Buona giornata
Silvia
Toh, mai sentito prima. E già la confezione invita all’assaggio.
Mi piace la tua preparazione.
Gatto Goloso, grazie a te per essere passata! il fatto di non essere l’unica che non lo conosceva mi conforta molto :-)
Twostella, hai ragione… a volte non si sanno proprio le cose più comuni e storicamente collaudate
Silvia, grazie a te ! buona giornata e buon weekend!
Alex, grazie cara, sono certa che il risottino un po’ speziato ti piacerebbe :-)
Bianca, accidenti come ti capisco… ascolta, non sono proprio espertissima di marmellate, potremmo chiamare in causa Giorgia! quel che so è che le pere in generale non si prestano molto; mio padre ne ha diverse piante e quest’estate ha scovato per la prima volta una ricetta per farne una marmellata con il miele, niente fruttapec ma cottura particolarmente lunga perchè sennò le pere sono sempre brodose. Ora, io rimetterei tutto sul fuoco, con calma e tempo a disposizione a farla cuocere lentamente tipo per …un paio d’ore. Aggiungi il miele se ti piace e se non pensi che poi venga troppo dolce (non saprei dirti una dose esatta, forse 200 gr per chilo di frutta). Potresti anche aggiungere un paio di mele, che dànno altra pectina e aiutano la consistenza. Speriamo bene!
Grazie per i tuoi commenti, sei tanto cara! a presto!!
Beh mi hai aperto un n uovo mondo!io amo tantissimo il riso e questa me la segno!
Buona giornata
Saretta:)
Premetto che il riso mi piace moltissimo, piu’ della pasta. ieri sera mi son fatta un risottino con cappesante marinate stile thai che era favoloso! conosco il riso stagionato e l’ho comprato durante l’estate da Eataly. Si chiama Acquerello, lo conosci? è in un simpatico barattolo di latta, ma non l’ho ancora usato.
La tua ricetta appare cosi’ invitante. Un pranzo da domenica. Carne, lardo, cannella. Sembra una ricetta ottocentesca..
baci dalla scozia..
sciopina
non avevo mai sentito parlare di questo riso, giuro! grazie per questa notizia, la ricetta deve essere molto buona! Buon week end! ^_^
Saretta, grazie! se poi lo fai fammi sapere :-)
Sciopina, ciao cara, ultimamente ho poco tempo ma voglio venire a leggermi con calma i tuoi numerosi post dalla Scozia, sono impressionata dalle foto di Glasgow che nella mia immaginazione doveva essere fredda e grigia e invece sembra bella scintillante… L’Acquerello non l’ho mai preso ma credo sia stato il primo riso stagionato a diffondersi soprattutto nella ristorazione, hanno perciò sicuramente il merito di aver fatto una buona comunicazione ben prima di altri :-) Se poi lo cucini ci racconterai…ok? baci!!
Susina, grazie a te!! e buon weekend :-)
uvetta cara, che bell’abbinamento! :-))) e per noi poverette che ce ne rimaniamo a Roma raccontaci altre meraviglie del Salone!!!
baci
Grazie Uvetta!
Oggi pomeriggio proverò avendo un po’ di tempo da dedicare alla marmellata! Non credo di aggiungere il mieleperchè non amo il “troppo dolce” e lì c’è zucchero di canna apposta..! Ti dirò appena avrò raggiunto il risulato e speruma bin!:
Ciao, grazie mille per il soccorso e a presto.
Un abbraccio
bianca
Cara Uvetta e preziosi i tuoi consigli! Ho recuperato alla grande tutta la marmellata di pere! Ho fatto bollire il tutto circa due ore, avevo aggiunto un limone tagliato a metà e pian piano si è addensata ed è diventata una meraviglia:la consistenza ricorda quella del fruttino Zuegg (una piccola “mattonella”di marmellata che mi ricorda l’infanzia..,era una delle merende che mi portavo a scuola…)
I vasetti si sono ridotti a 6 ma sono davvero eccellenti!!! Ne ho assaggiata un cucchiaino e mmm.proprio buona (il gusto si intreccia tra limone, cannella, zenzero e asprezza della pera..beh proprio buona) adesso provvederò alla sterilizzazione.:grazie infinite e a presto.
Ciao
bianca
come stai? ;))
Sei poi passata da Torino oggi?
Ero alla presentazione del libro allo stand B28 e avevo il cell scarico!
bacioni e bellissimo/buonissimo questo riso
Bianca, sono proprio contenta che abbia funzionato!! bravissima!! Il fruttino Zuegg ce l’ho presente…è quello fatto con la mela cotogna no? un bacione e a presto!! Ciao, Sil
Sandrina, accidenti… si ero al salone domenica tutto il giorno, ho pensato anche io di chiamarti ma poi presa nel vortice dell’assaggio non era mai il momento giusto. Vabbè, ci vediamo presto comunque! baci :-)
Di questo produttore acquisto durante l’inverno la farina di mais biancoperla, non sapevo niente del riso, adesso mi hai messo una gran curiosità! magari lo trovo negli stessi negozi che tengono la farina
Elisabetta, spettacolare la farina, vengo a sbirciare qualche tua ricettina per valorizzarla al meglio! ho scoperto domenica al Salone che producono anche una ottima birra chiara di mais biancoperla e un’ambrata di mais maranello, davvero notevoli entrambe. E poi sono stati gentilissimi!
premessa
ora ti faccio ridere, l’altra volta mi aveva colpito ed entusiasmato la ciambella, va a sapee il perchè, forse perchè non la faccio da anni o sarà stato il caffè, ‘mbo, fatto sta che appena l’ho vista mi sono detta me la stampo e appena riesco la faccio. Invece non so com’è ma non stampai la pagina e smemorizzai la proprietaria d’origine, quindi mi sono passata un pezzetto del mio tempo a ricercare sta cavolo di ciambella. Adesso, appresso al profuno del tuo risotto, vengo qua e la ritrovo.
troppo bello!
sulla birra al salone ne ho viste (e bevute) delle belle, ci hanno fatto di tutto. Il riso invecchiato l’ho visto, ma ho pensato di documentarmi.
:-)))
ovviamente sto stampando la MIA ciambella, grrrrrrrrrr se penso alla rabbia dell’altra volta mi scappa da ridere
“una coltivazione rispettosa della natura” : già questa frase dice molto :-)
avevo sentito parlare di questo riso ma non l’ho mai visto in giro. ho proprio voglia di assaggiarlo… bravissima uvetta: mi piace quando fai cultura gastronomica! :D
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