Sicilia Barocca (in un giorno solo)
Set 3rd, 2008 by Uvetta
E’ mattina presto, è piena estate nel sud della Sicilia e il sole è già caldo e forte. Il tizio dell’autonoleggio ci spiega che non avendo più disponibilità di utilitarie ci ha portato una station wagon allo stesso prezzo, una sportivissima 159 blu nuova di zecca. Wow, iniziamo proprio bene. Dopo una piccola colazione usciamo dall’hotel su questa super auto, e partiamo per il nostro viaggio nel viaggio, lasciando un mare cristallino e una spiaggia d’oro, per una giornata tra città, palazzi e pasticcerie barocche.
La nostra prima meta è Noto, arroccata sulle alture a pochi chilometri dalla costa, regno della coltivazione della mandorla e circondata da aranceti e ulivi. E’ un dedalo di vie a senso unico, svolte obbligate, ripide salite e discese impossibili. Posteggiamo abbastanza facilmente in una via non lontano dal centro storico e scendiamo a piedi verso Corso Vittorio Emanuele per vederne i palazzi barocchi e le chiese monumentali, respirarne l’aria placida da ‘giardino di pietra’, camminare tra i negozietti e le pasticcerie. Entriamo da Campisi a scegliere souvenirs (?) tra pomodorini secchi, filetti di tonno sott’olio, bottarga di tonno rosso e capperi al sale.
La via dell’Infiorata scende dritta verso Caffè Sicilia, meta obbligata e anche piuttosto agognata del nostro viaggio; entriamo e l’imbarazzo della scelta ci trattiene davanti alle vetrine di pasticceria assortita per diversi minuti, alla fine ordiniamo latte di mandorla, trancetto al pistacchio e una deliziosa ciotolina di friscura aruci (ricotta fresca con grano e granella di pistacchi), continuando a desiderare anche tutto il resto, dalle briosche col tuppo, alle granite, ai gelati, alle torte di fichi e di ricotta, a tutto quel che si vede in giro. Corrado Assenza (leggete di lui ad esempio qui o qui) fa capolino dietro al bancone quando noi siamo sistemati nella saletta, sentiamo la gente fare domande e lui scherzare un po’ con tutti, nel viavai continuo del personale tra una folta schiera di turisti gourmet e di compassati concittadini. Il locale è riammodernato con uno stile lineare e sobrio in contrasto con la città che l’attornia ma certamente funzionale, trasmette un’idea di contemporaneità del gusto, di fascinoso sapere di antiche ricette elaborate in chiave moderna, senza artifici ma con spontanea ricerca dell’esaltazione delle materie prime.
E’ già ora di proseguire. Visitiamo la Cattedrale, restituita al mondo da solo poco più di un anno, dopo il crollo strutturale del 1996. Salendo la lunga scalinata sotto la facciata imponente di pietra gialla il sole picchia, ed entrando si trova appena quell’idea di fresco di una grande chiesa; quel che regna invece è il contrasto con la Noto antica che hai alle spalle, le pareti sono bianche, immacolate, così pure i pavimenti di marmo nuovissimi, sembra che il restauro sia terminato ieri, e invece dell’odore dell’incenso che ti aspetteresti, senti un chè di tinteggiatura e calce appena fatti. C’è luce, una bella luce chiara filtrata dalla cupola altissima e riflessa dai muri candidi, e si ammira un vero miracolo di architettura e ingegno umano che ha rielaborato da zero i pilastri collassati, i muri sbriciolati, pietra su pietra, su fino alla cupola.
E’ ora di pranzo, le vie si svuotano assolate, la fame è azzerata dal caldo, riconosco passandoci davanti la Trattoria del Carmine, dove solo un paio di anni fa ho cenato in un altro viaggio memorabile, assaporando forse la Sicilia più vera -per due soldi- in una bella tavolata di amici. Ugualmente di fronte, riconosco il Mandolfiore, altra pasticceria arcinota della città, dove entriamo per comprare una bottiglia d’acqua… Il signore al banco della pasticceria intuisce però nei miei occhi quell’aria tra l’ammirato e lo sbigottito, e mi chiede ‘Signora, ma è sicura che solo l’acqua vuole?’ …eh, no che non sono sicura!! :-) C’è tempo per una sosta, un arancino al ragù, una granita di caffè con panna e un assaggio di gelato al pistacchio, prima di riprendere l’auto e nella calura del primo pomeriggio riprendere la SS 115, in direzione di Modica.
Cosa ci sia al mondo di più buono del cioccolato modicano…ecco, non saprei. Poi mi torna in mente che è giovedì e che da Bonajuto oggi fanno i cannoli di ricotta. Sono le quattro del pomeriggio, vuoi non provarli? una vera bontà, con la cialda croccantissima e la crema gustosa, dolce il giusto e oltremodo goloso. Facciamo shopping di cioccolato, da quello più classico alla cannella, a quello più nuovo al sale di Mozia, passando per quello al limone, al cardamomo, al fruttosio, al pepe bianco, ai classiconi 70 e 80 per cento. La signorina al bancone è prodiga di spiegazioni, ci offre il liquore di cioccolato al peperoncino, ci spiega la pasticceria pezzo per pezzo, e intanto ordina in laboratorio alle sue spalle quel che le serve per la vendita. Bonajuto è una oreficeria del gusto, le spezie sembrano dominare l’ambiente ma in realtà chi la fa da padrone è solo e soltanto il cioccolato. La granulosità e la scioglievole prelibatezza delle loro tavolette sono sempre delicati e raffinati, mai la speziatura si fa dominante sul cioccolato, e sempre il cioccolato ti sorprende per aromaticità e unicità. Alla fine prendo anche un sacchettino di ‘mpanatigghi (biscotti ripieni di carne alle spezie e cioccolato) e un panetto di pasta di mandorle.
E’ ora di spostarci a Ragusa Ibla. In duomo c’è un matrimonio, e per combinazione entriamo nel momento clu e partecipiamo sorpresi e sorridenti all’applauso agli sposi, confusi tra gli invitati. La scalinata di San Giorgio domina la piazza centrale, bellissima, con le palme ombrose, i dehors dei caffè affollati e la luce del tramonto. Passeggiamo fino al giardino botanico aspettando la sera, comperiamo un po’ di extra vergine dei Monti iblei da Gelati DiVini, un mix tra gelateria ed enoteca dove tra l’altro assaggiamo un cucchiaino indimenticabile di Gocce Verdi, gelato all’olio extra vergine -buonissimo. A sera mi telefonano da Ciccio Sultano, chiedono una conferma della prenotazione per la cena. Si Si! tutto confermato!! la giornata è stata ricca e impegnativa, ma la Sicilia barocca è così buona che la si può anche assaporare tutta d’un fiato.
To be continued…
Sono anni che dico che mi piacerebbe visitare la sicilia … dopo il tuo percorso tra storia, architetture e golosità … peccato le vacanze sono finite … bellissimo post! Bentornata!
Seems like you had a very good time! Enjoyed going through a virtual tour of Silicy through your post :-)
che bello il tuo racconto uvetta. se già morivo dalla voglia di visitare la sicilia adesso proprio devo trovare il tempo e il modo di andarci… campisi, io compro spesso qui a torino il patè di ricciola e altre squisitezze, certo che sono bravi!
Quanti ricordi… Anche io l’anno scorso ho avuto la fortuna di visitare questi luoghi splendidi e di mangiare le stesse splendide preparazioni (in più giorni, fortunatamente). E anche io sono stata da Ciccio!!! Aspetto il seguito, ciao
prima di tutto…bentornataaa!
E poi complimenti! hai scelto proprio un bel tour della Sicilia! Conosco bene quelle zone e i locali che hai visitato!
hai provato le ‘manatigghie di Bonajuto? Ne esiste anche una versione con le melanzane: si chiamano “liccumie”, ma li fanno solo su richiesta…hai visto mai dovessi tornarci, ti ho avvisato :)
Michelangelo
Uvinaaaa…ben ritrovata!!!
Che belle foto, che bel racconto…
Io ho una voglia di tornare in Sicilia… vedere i posti dove i miei nonni sono nati e vissuti per i primi anni della loro vita!!! Prima o poi… tornerò giù!
Un abbraccio
Stesse mie tappe dello scorso anno!Che sogno!!!A distanza di tempo porto dentro i ricordi, i profumi i sapori e le bellezze di quei posti…
Grazie x avermele fatte rivivere!
Bacioni
Saretta
spettacolare! quanta voglia ho di andare in sicilia: pare strano ma no<n ci sono mai stata!
bentornata uvetta :D
Twostella, ciao !! guarda, vacci appena puoi, la Sicilia è tutta bellissima.
Mona, thanks a lot, i’m glad you enjoyed reading!
Giorgia, ma dai? dove lo compri Campisi a Torino??
Maricler, infatti ci sono prima andata e stavolta ritornata davvero con un certo entusiasmo!
Michelangelo, ciao! guarda, meno male che me l’hai detto così ho una scusa per ritornarci :-) Le liccumie mi mancano proprio!
Sere, ciao bella, come stai?? ho letto di New York, ora vengo a trovarti :-)
Saretta grazie a te per essere passata!! baci
Sapina, vale anche per te, vacci presto!! baci
Da morire di invidia e di desiderio, non puoi fare questo ad un povero amico che cerca di dimagrire…:)
E poi sapere che continuerai con Ciccio Sultano, brava e bentornata Uvetta, ci sei mancata tanto!
L’enoteca è già aperta?
I profumi paiono arrivare fino a qui… che incanto il tuo racconto. l’aria calda di sole i colori che stordiscono dalla bellezza ,i contrasti tra buio e luce..Devo vederla ancora un po’ questa Sicilia … troppo tempo è passato dalla prima volta,tu streghi con le parole e fai innamorare di terra, di fiori , di sapori..Uvetta sei straodinaria:mi hai preso per mano e accompagnato in un viaggio unico:grazie.
Vittorio ciao! pensa che ti ho portato pure un pensierino per completare l’opera … vabbè ma a piccole dosi non farà ingrassare :-) L’enoteca è aperta sì, sono stata un po’ lontana dal blog ma in vacanza vera solo una settimana!! ci vediamo presto, Sil
Bianca, grazie per le tue bellissime parole. Da persone sensibili, è facile che la Sicilia arrivi dritta al cuore :-)
…già….memorabile….
Bentornata Silvana!!! Sei stata dove ho cercato di andare io quest’anno ma poi dieci giorni prima tutto e crollato e siamo andati in Puglia che si e’ rivelata una regione bellissima…. comunque il bar di Noto me rimasto in gola :O Ma ci andro’!
Mi e’ piaciuto molto leggerti, come sempre!
Holanciato un’iniziativa: raccogliere le ricette di voi amici blogger testate o scoperte durante le vacanze estive…. volevo invitarti a partecipare. Il link e’ http://campodifragole.blogspot.com/2008/09/meme-tasty-summer-holiday-souvenir.html
Ti aspetto Silvana, mi raccomando e’ la prima volta che lancio qualcosa….
Un bacione,
Daniela
Che bello che bello! Che invidia che invidia!pure io pure io!!
Attendo ansiosa la cena da Ciccio Sultano
Un abbraccio
sciopina
Emanuela, l’hai detto! :-)
Sciopina, ricambio l’abbraccio :-) buon weekend!
uffaaaaaa! sei stata in sicilia senza dirmi nulla’??? :(((
lo so che modica o ragusa non sono vicinissime a palermo, ma avrei fatto volentieri una gita per il piacere di conoscerti!
:((((
Ciao a tutti,
volevo solo dirvi che la Sicilia è veramente stupenda. A gennaio andrò a vivere a Milazzo (in Sicilia, porto per le Eolie) io sono di Bologna ed aprirò un Surf Shop proprio sul bellissimo lungomare, se la prossima estate volete venire in quelle zone contattateci, abbiamo anche un piccolo sito che è http://www.moonbay.it, vi aspettiamo giù!! Ciao a tutti e complimenti per il blog.
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